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Residents Handbook RANGE - COOKING & CLEANING TIPS To insure maximum cooking efficiency on your electric range, please be sure to follow the operating instructions carefully. The range has a two-piece broiler with separate pan and grill and is completely removable for easy cleaning. This should be done after each use. Raised edges of the range top cooking surface retain spills, splashes, and boil-overs. When boiling liquid, the highest temperature that can be reached is the boiling point. After the liquid begins to boil, decrease the intensity of heat that will hold the boil. This will save electricity, lessen the possibility of burning food or boiling food over your cookware, and keep the kitchen cooler. Use stable cookware with flat bottoms. Always place the cookware on the burner before turning on the burner. Select cookware large enough to avoid spill-overs; however, oversized cookware (diameters exceeding 8 1/2 inches) can cause the finish of the range to discolor, craze and chip. Preheat oven for 10 to 12 minutes before placing food in oven (oven indicator light will go off when ready). It is not necessary to preheat for broiling or roasting. It is important to select a proper temperature setting. Never set the dial to a higher degree than needed, with the intention of lowering the setting at a later time. This will not speed up the action. It can cause the oven to cycle slower and cause the temperatures to vary so that cooking results may be unsatisfactory. When using glass bake ware, lower the oven temperature 25 degrees to prevent browning of the bottom and sides before the top becomes brown. With glass bake ware, it is better to increase the preheat time to have exact stabilization of temperature. Allow 20 minutes for temperatures up to 350 degrees and 30 minutes for higher temperatures. Avoid opening the door as much as possible. The oven racks should be arranged before turning the oven on. Place the racks so that the food, not the rack, is "Officeed" in the oven. When baking more than one item, be sure to stagger them, allowing space between each one. Do not allow the bake ware to touch any part of the oven. To remove the rack, pull the oven rack forward and lift up on the front of the rack so it will clear the rack keeper. To replace the oven rack, guide the angled rear portion of the rack under the rack keeper and slide the rack to the rear. NEVER cover the oven racks with aluminum foil. This traps heat and causes intense heat in spots, which will give poor baking results and can damage the porcelain interior. When baking foods such as overfilled fruit pies, casseroles, etc., it is recommended that you put a cookie sheet or similar pan on the oven bottom. When doing so do not cover any of the holes in the oven bottom, this will upset the heat pattern. If you should get a heavy spillover on the oven bottom, wipe up the excess with damp cloth after the oven cools. Do not use any detergent, soap pads, or heavy rubbing; abrasives will destroy the finish. Never leave grease or oil unattended; fires are likely and costly repairs. When cleaning your range, please make sure to clean inside the range hood, remove and wash the hood filter. Clean on and underneath the drip pans, burner rings, oven racks, range drawer, broiler pan, and oven walls (top, sides, bottom). Do not use oven cleaner on the range top, drip pans, racks, range hood or back splash. Oven cleaner can be used inside your oven. Back to Topics INSTRUCTIONS FOR SELF-CLEANING OVENS BEFORE YOU START: Do not move or bend the fiberglass oven door seal. Do not try to clean it by hand. If you want your oven racks to stay shiny and bright, take them out before starting the cleaning cycle. Do not leave any pots or pans in the oven during the cleaning cycle. Do not put broiler pans or burner rings in the oven to clean. It will discolor them and you will be charged for replacement at current prices. CHROME REFLECTOR BOWLS MUST NOT BE CLEANED IN THE OVEN. TO USE THE CLEANING CYCLE: 1. Latch the door to "Closed." 2. Set Oven Selector Knob to "Clean" or "Auto Self-Clean." 3. Set Oven Temperature Control Knob to "Clean." 4. Make sure the clock and dials for start and stop time have the right time of day. 5. Push in on the Stop Time Knob and set it ahead as many hours as you want the cleaning cycle. For a slightly soiled oven, two hours may be enough. For heavy soil, three hours may be better. 6. Lock the oven door by moving the Lock Lever on the oven all the way to the right. When it is all the way over, the "CLEAN" light will come on. If the "CLEAN" light does not come on, the Lock Lever is not all the way over and the cleaning cycle will not start. When the "CLEAN" light comes on, the oven starts the cleaning cycle. About 20 minutes later, the "LOCK" light will come on. It will stay on during the cleaning cycle. The door cannot be unlocked while the "LOCK light is on. 7. The oven will shut off when the proper time is reached, but the oven door will stay locked until the oven has cooled. When the "LOCK" light turns off, turn the Oven Selector Knob and Oven Temperature Control Knob to "OFF." This turns off the "CLEAN" light. Now, move the "LOCK" lever back to the left. DO NOT FORCE THE LOCK LEVER. If it does not move easily, wait until it does. With the "LOCK" lever all the way to the left, the oven door can be opened. Note: The cleaning process can cause smoke and odors. If this occurs, please open the windows. When the oven has cooled completely, wipe out any residue or ashes from the bottom. Back to Topics DISHWASHER All dishwashers require the use of dishwasher detergent only. Scrape dishes before you place them in the dishwasher. Be sure the door is closed and locked before turning on the dishwasher. For the considerations of your neighbors please do not run your dishwasher after 11:00pm. THE DO'S AND DON'TS OF DISHWASHING:  1.) Wash only plastic items
that are marked "dishwasher safe" or the equivalent. Load all plastics on the
top rack along the back face down. Place all plastic tumblers securely over two
fingers of rack to prevent them from becoming dislodged and falling onto the
heating unit.
2.) Because of the possibility of the dishwasher leaking or malfunctioning, never operate it unless someone is at home.
3.) To minimize the possibility of injury, load sharp items so that they will not damage the door seal. Load sharp knives with the handles up to avoid injuries.
4.) Make sure your garbage disposal is empty before starting the dishwasher.
5.) To avoid over-sudsing, use ONLY dishwasher detergent specifically made for use in the dishwasher. DO NOT USE LAUNDRY OR OTHER DETERGENT. Store all detergent in a dry place. Do not place detergent in the dishwasher's soap dispenser until you are ready to use the dishwasher.
6.) Scrape off bones, seeds, skins, toothpicks, hard-shelled vegetables, meat trimmings, leafy vegetables, crusts, excessive quantities of oil, grease and quantities of food. Place dishes in the dishwasher before the soil on the dishes has a chance to become hard and dry.
7.) Remove such foods as mustard, mayonnaise, vinegar, lemon juice and other foods, which may discolor stainless steel.
8.) Never use abrasives or sharp objects on the panel. Clean it with a lightly dampened cloth and dry thoroughly.
9.) When loading the dishwasher, make sure dishes are not blocking the wash tower, which rises up through the Office of the bottom rack during the wash and rinse cycles.
10.) Do not allow items to extend through the bottom rack or silverware basket, such as knives, skewers or pot handles.
11.) Place glasses, cups and saucers on the top rack face down to prevent them from becoming dislodged.
Make sure the door is closed and locked before turning on the dishwasher. WHAT YOU CAN SAFELY WASH IN YOUR DISHWASHER:
GARBAGE DISPOSALS To make everything as easy as possible for you, garbage disposals have been installed in each apartment. However, please do not use the unit for the disposal of paper, string, metal, wood, cleaning supplies, quantities of hot grease, banana peels, glass, pea pods, or corn husks. There will be a maintenance charge if the garbage disposal must be repaired as a result of any of these items. If you follow these simple rules in operating your garbage disposal, we believe you will have uninterrupted service without the inconvenience of overflowing sinks, stopped-up plumbing, or other annoyances. 1. Turn on cold water faucet and let water run freely.
2. Turn on garbage disposal switch.
3. Feed food waste into the disposal. Do not put your finger or metal object into the disposal.
4. Let garbage disposal run for another 30 seconds after the food waste has cleared the disposal. The sound will indicate when it is clear. Continue to let the water run for a minute or more to flush the pipes.
Your garbage disposal will shut off automatically when it is overloaded. To start it again, PUSH THE RED BUTTON ON THE BOTTOM OF THE GARBAGE DISPOSAL. This should restart the unit; if it fails to start or continues to shut off, please report it to the Information Office. Back to Topics APPENDIX 4 - EXTERMINATOR Each week the exterminator comes to the community for routinely scheduled extermination, to serve complaints, and to treat garbage and laundry areas. If you wish service in your apartment, please contact the Information Office. All food and utensils must be removed from the kitchen cabinets. Extermination will not always be noticeable immediately. Often, there is increased activity. The effective killing power of the chemicals used is between 60-90 days. Please call the Information Office if you still see pests in your apartment after 10 days. It may be necessary to have several treatments within the requirements of repetitive spraying of chemicals. Routinely, all apartments in a building receive mandatory exterminating. We ask for your cooperation; even if you don't have a problem, your neighbors may; very often the only solution is to spray the entire building. If you request additional service and do not clear the cabinets, there will be a $15 charge. Upon the second request, if cabinets are not cleared, there will be a $20 charge, and our team will clean the cabinets. Please help us in this preventive maintenance request for your benefit as well as the benefit of others. Back to Topics APPENDIX 5 - WHAT TO DO SHOULD FIRE STRIKE? What you do in the first five minutes of a fire can be worth the next five hours. First, see that everyone is out of the apartment. Then, see that the fire department is called and then call the Information Office, or, if after office hours, call the emergency maintenance number. Above all, DO NOT PANIC. Fires rise and spread through open doors and stairways. Anything you can safely do to delay or retard this spread will help. Do not leave your apartment door open if you have to leave the apartment in case of fire. However, leave the door unlocked in case the Fire Department would have to enter the apartment. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." Remember, fire thrives on fuel and air. If you can safely remove one of these elements, you can help stop the fire. No resident is allowed to keep gasoline or other combustible materials in said premises or are permitted to do anything which would increase the possibility of a fire (i.e., keep motorized vehicles in building or on patios). Above all, you can prevent fires by taking these simple precautions: 1. Make sure matches and cigarettes are completely cold before they are discarded.
2. Keep matches out of the reach of children.
3. DO NOT SMOKE IN BED.
4. Never throw water on a grease fire occurring on the range. Have a box of baking soda handy to douse the fire.
Back to Topics APPENDIX 6 - CONDENSATION What is this water on my windows? Water or frost on windows is condensation. Condensation is formed when warm moist air comes in contact with cooler dry air just as a bathroom mirror will "steam up" after a hot shower. The inside or outside of your window can sweat or fog because of temperature differentials. Are my windows to blame?Faulty windows do not cause condensation. Glass is usually the place you first notice condensation because glass surfaces have the lowest temperature of any of the interior surfaces in the house. Then what's the cause?The moisture in the air causes condensation. The reason you may observe more condensation in your home is because of modern energy efficient homebuilding techniques and products. The insulation and construction materials used today are designed to keep cold air outside. This is especially true of new windows. While energy efficient designs and weather stripping keep cold air outside, they also keep warm moist air inside. Older window designs were less efficient, and consequently allowed moisture to escape. If you didn't have as much condensation before replacing your old windows, it's probably because they were drafty. Good windows and insulation all create barriers to the air exchange of a home. When combined with the additional water vapor (moisture) from showers, cooking, or from clothes dryers not vented to the outside, the result is excess moisture and a high relative indoor humidity level. How can condensation be reduced?The key lies in controlling the humidity inside your home. First, let's understand where the moisture comes from. During the hot humid summer, your house absorbs moisture. The same principle applies to a newly constructed or remodeled home, due to the abundance of moisture from the building materials used in construction. During the beginning of the winter when you start to heat your home, condensation occurs. After a few weeks, your home will begin to dry out and you'll see less condensation. Opening a window briefly is a quick temporary solution. The dryer cold air will enter the room while the moist air is allowed to escape. Other steps to take include: .
Cracking open a window or door daily to air out your house.
.
Opening a window or running exhaust fans longer in the kitchen, bathroom and
laundry room.
. Opening drapes and blinds, allowing air to circulate
against windows.. Turning off any humidifying devices in your home.
.
Installing and using a dehumidifier.
If you live in a northern climate, the above as well as the following points may be relevant. .
Adding storm windows or replacing existing single-pane windows with insulated
windows.
.
Keeping plants in a sunroom, or in rooms that are infrequently used during extreme
cold weather.
. Adding waterproofing protection to basement
floors and walls.
. Removing radiator pans until sweating has been
eliminated.
.
Making sure that open-faced gas heaters are connected to a chimney and using
them as little
as possible.
When should I be concerned? Window condensation should only occur during extreme temperature differences and should be of a fairly small amount. During the winter months, condensation will be seen on the inside of the window. Condensation will present itself on the outside of the window during the summer months. If you find condensation between the two layers of glass in an insulated window, the airtight seal has probably been broken and the glass will need to be replaced. If there is too much moisture inside the home, you will find evidence during both the cold and warm seasons. Moisture spots on the ceiling or walls, peeling paint, rotting wood or delaminating plywood, moisture on exterior walls, fungus, mold or mildew growth are signs of a more serious moisture problem. Should you experience these symptoms, an expert heating & cooling contractor should be contacted in order to solve your problem. Back to Topics |
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